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How to Install the FX35 and FX45 Hatch Struts?Updated 2 years ago

One of our very nice customers has provided a snap shot of how he installed the supports on his FX45 rear hatch. Some of the FX35 and FX 45 supports simply unclip from the brackets and others require the details show below. The brackets are available from the dealer at a cost of approx $25.00 and do not wear out so many have elected to not purchase them and reuse the old ones. Please note that all 4 brackets are different and when removing to work on you should mark each to make sure you reinstall the in the same position. Grinding or cutting the end brackets from the supports can be dangerous, Eye protection is a must and if you are not familiar with work like this do not attempt this project.

The bolts that secure the strut bracket to the body are concealed under this plastic cover trim.
 
The cover is held in place with a couple of body clips that slide into notches in the cover and a little bit of trim adhesive.
 
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Here the cover is shown upside down. Slide a knife around the edge of the cover, then work it loose by pushing downward to slide the open side of the notch off of the clip.
 
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These views compare the new strut with the old.
 
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The new strut extended length was slightly longer than the original (perhaps ½ inch).
 
This did not pose any problem. The shape of the socket was a little different but not in any way that would cause interference.
 
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I used a cut-off tool to split the socket. The socket material was fairly thick and tougher than I expected, although it cut easily. It had to be cut substantially through and all the way around the socket before it would break away. The trick was to cut almost through without scaring the ball. Since the strut will be discarded, I just clamped down tight with the vise. All we’re trying to save is the bracket and the ball. Note some have simply ground down the ball socket using a bench grinder. Eye Protection is a must when doing this.
 
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In this photo you can see the cut is broken through in several places. I used a cold chisel and hammer to crack away half of the socket.
 
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In this photo the socket is cracked away and the instruments of persuasion are visible.
 
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I used a piece of plastic pipe to hold the lid up. Before the RH strut was removed I clamped a Vise Grip pliers on the old strut cylinder to support the lid as well. After the second strut was removed, we depended on the new strut (no vise grips of course) and the plastic pipe. The lid is very heavy and would do serious damage to your head and neck if it fell please make sure your prop is well in place!
 
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I connected the cylinder end of the strut to the bracket and then bolted the bracket to the body. I bolted the lid bracket to the lid. Then I pushed up on the lid and slipped the piston end socket onto the lid ball.

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Probably the most difficult part of the job was to replace the plastic covers. But hey, this is an Infinity, you wouldn’t want to go around with your strut bolts showing would you! With a little fiddling and a few choice words I was able to get the slots to slip under the clip heads.

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The hatch opens and closes perfectly. It opens firmly; the struts ease it up so it doesn’t slam to the limit. It takes a strong but reasonable pull to bring it back down. The over-center design lets it close firmly but gently.
 
It took me less than two hours to complete the job including time for photography.
 
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